This is a film that excels under controlled lighting, or with a slower, more careful style of shooting. But we were entirely ready to be disappointed again. Professional fashion and editorial photographers abandoned the laborious process of shooting and developing slide film for the infinitely quicker and easier to use digital files. How to Shoot Kodak Ektachrome 120 Slide Film, Rate the Kodak Ektachrome at box speed;– i.e. My favorite color film, I think. That’s strange my results with Ektachrome 100 are much more true to life color than the results I’ve got with Provia. Right now in one back I have velvia 50 in it right now. Obviously I use Ektachrome now since I still shoot more slide than color print. If I had to place it anywhere, I’d place it close to Kodak Ektar in that it’s a bit of a character piece, even though it features a better overall color rendition than that film. Now, I don’t know about this modern film, but in the past “Professional” versions of films did not imply a superior film, per se, but one which had been aged by the manufacturer before release for sale, and it had to be stored in optimal conditions by the retailer, i.e. Ektachrome uses this to its advantage – images recall the older slide films that populated the pages of old National Geographic issues from the 1980s and 90s. I just can’t get enough of this film. The Contax TVS is the Best Contax Compact to Buy Right Now, Five Accessories Every Film Photographer Should Own and Use. I used the slide film the way I would normally use Kodak Ektar on the people and locations I would normally shoot. I’ve shot a decent amount of it and while it’s a great film it’s very Fuji-like in it’s rendering… High contrast and color saturation, reddish skin tones with pale skin and anything in shadow goes very blue (I always have an 812 filter on with Provia). Happily, they succeeded. It can be used for portraiture, though some photographers dislike the way it renders lighter-skinned subjects. I dunno if I agree with your praise of Provia. As I am writing I notice that I need to order a fresh box of 120 rolls. One thing certainly true of both Titian’s paintings and Ektachrome is the sporadic vividness of the blues, and I don’t necessarily mean in skies. Slide film does not have much latitude with exposure. But even though the later 1987 type emulsions saw an improvement in the green layer, for critical colour work, day in, day out, it would still be unreliable to buy a film “off the shelf” and why the Professional release films were still so important. You’re not the first who has fondly remembered the 25 stock. In 1994, 35mm Ektar was discontinued due to a flagging and over-segmented film market. I will blog about that soon.I also shot a roll of Ektachrome cross processed, the blog post with the cross-processed Kodak Ektachrome E100 images is here.I love my scans from Kodak Ektachrome E100 in 120. Up until a few months ago it was all but certain that we’d be saying goodbye to E-6 slide film. Now. Before Ektar was around, Kodak’s finest-grain film came in the form of their professional Ektachrome E100G, and Kodak’s literature on Ektar explains that the new film was developed with foresight in regard to the relationship between Ektachrome and Ektar. Honestly, find a good lab might be the hardest part of the process for me. A keeper. It’s also a milestone that, frankly, many of us never thought possible. Your email address will not be published. If you like film photography, you’ll probably like slide film. To really compare two E-6 films validly, you need to use the same processing lab and the same scanning procedure (one option in some cases being drum scanning by some processing labs) or the same viewing procedure. Use a handheld meter to ensure you are getting accurate exposure; I like to shoot it on a sunny day with subjects that have bright colors; If you shoot with the sun behind you, you can also use the Sunny 16 exposure rule to expose. I don’t know if this is still true, or, frankly, ever true, but my understanding is that both Kodachrome and Ektachrome were deliberately blueish because they were intended to be projected, and projector bulbs, being incandescent, are yellow/orange. Kodak is playing it safe. Shoot it at box speed and meter for mid-tones. Prior to that, fresh Kodachrome 64 often gave slightly greenish results. I’ll pick up some rolls for my trip to Nevada this spring . There was, of course, no reason to strictly adhere to this advice, but then paying the premium for the Professional film was a moot point. https://i2.wp.com/casualphotophile.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/kodak-ektachrome-samples-DVL-8-of-10.jpg?fit=2800%2C1857&ssl=1, https://casualphotophile.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/kodak-ektachrome-samples-josh-9-of-9.jpg. I recently started to shoot film, I tried Ektar, but seems like I need to be extra careful with to not over/under expose it. Ektachrome E100 is the new film, which began production in 2018. I always send mine to The Lab Vancouver and I get consistently excellent results! Under-exposed shots still work as far as two stops under, but will result in a blue cast, while over-exposing is also nicely handled (though you’ll find more red tones in the lighter areas of the shot). Kodachrome fell in 2010. The vintage 3D cameras do not feature automation, and sunshine is usually the preferred method of illumination to get the depth-of-field in the images. And while Ektar’s colors burst from the page like fireworks, the film manages to avoid rendering colors in an overzealous way.

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